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Kies de Nederlandse taal
Course module: NS-MO428M
NS-MO428M
Ocean waves
Course infoSchedule
Course codeNS-MO428M
ECTS Credits7.5
Category / LevelM (Master)
Course typeCourse
Language of instructionEnglish
Offered byFaculty of Science; Graduate School of Natural Sciences;
Contact personprof. dr. H.E. de Swart
Telephone+31 30 2537756
E-mailH.E.deSwart@uu.nl
Lecturers
Lecturer
prof. dr. L.R.M. Maas
Other courses by this lecturer
Lecturer
prof. dr. H.E. de Swart
Feedback and availability
Other courses by this lecturer
Contactperson for the course
prof. dr. H.E. de Swart
Other courses by this lecturer
Teaching period
1  (05/09/2016 to 11/11/2016)
Teaching period in which the course begins
1
Time slotB: TUE-morning, THU-afternoon
Study mode
Full-time
Enrolment periodfrom 30/05/2016 up to and including 26/06/2016
Course application processOsiris
Enrolling through OSIRISYes
Enrolment open to students taking subsidiary coursesYes
Pre-enrolmentNo
Post-registrationYes
Post-registration openfrom 22/08/2016 up to and including 23/08/2016
Waiting listNo
Aims
After completion of the course, the student
  1. has in-depth knowledge about both the qualitative and quantitative modelling aspects of tidal forces (constituents, equilibrium tide);
  2. is able to give a full quantitative and physical description of tidal waves in channels and in semi-enclosed basins;
  3. has in-depth knowledge of the equations of motion that govern wind waves, understands the differences with the equations that govern long waves, and knows how to compute and interpret the characteristics of free waves governed by these equations;
  4. has in-depth knowledge of the equations of motion that govern wind waves, understands the differences with the equations that govern long waves, and knows how to compute and interpret the characteristics of free waves governed by these equations;
  5. is acquainted with with the basic principles of wave-current interaction and wave-wave interactions;
  6. knows the main models and mechanisms that describe the generation of waves by wind, and is able to find solutions of these models;
  7. is acquainted and can work with the basic concepts of random waves, and knows how these concepts are implemented in modern wave prediction models.
Content
Topics:
Part 1: tidal forces and tidal potential, free long waves (Kelvin/Poincaré), Taylor problem, forced waves: co-oscillation problem.
Part 2: free short waves, wave generation by wind, statistical description of waves, wave spectrum, wave prediction models.
Competencies
-
Entry requirements
You must meet the following requirements
  • Assigned study entrance permit for the master
Prerequisite knowledge
Geophysical Fluid Dynamics
Required materials
Software
MatLab
Recommended materials
Book
Platzmann, "Ocean waves and tides"
Book
Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics
Book
Holhuijsen, Waves in oceanic and coastal waters
Dictation
Lecture notes will be available at Blackboard
Book
(not compulsory; electronic copy available in library): Holthuijsen, L.H. 2007. Waves in oceanic and coastal waters. Cambridge University Press.
Instructional formats
Lecture/seminar

Tests
Exam
Test weight100
Minimum grade5.5

Assessment
Half-time exam, final exam, oral presentation.
Final grade = 0.375*(half-time exam+final exam)+0.25*presentation
Grades are rounded at half points (6, 6.5 etc.), except below 6 (no 5.5 is given)

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Kies de Nederlandse taal